Jan 2007

Having just finished a game of darts (at which, I might add, I have failed miserably) and a few too many glasses of champange with Len and Jess in their Adelaide backyard, I return to my leather-bound, self-indugent journal.

There have been many instances in the past week where the question, "Why are you going to Adelaide?" has been raised, as if the city were a sort of cesspit. On the contrary, Adelaide is marvelous! The drive from Kangaroo Island (where i beheld not only kangaroos but koalas, goanas, wallabies and legions of possums, not to mention a fabulous visit with Maggie, her grandaughter and son!) to Adelaide twisted through wine country and cheese farms into the city. Aside from it's breathtaking beautiful beaches (say that 5 times fast...) Adelaide reminded me of the mellow, laid-back Calgary where I grew up, before it became the money-driven oil-drinking center of Alberta...

The past few days have been spent chillin' with Len and Jess, getting to know them on a more-than-casual basis, along with their friends Nick and Cass. It's always great to spend time and reminisce with people from home. It's been so damn hot (over 40 degrees) that our trips to the stunning, clean, not-too-crowded Brighton Beach have been short, although a dip into the cool ocean was much needed.

Today we drove out to Handorf, a German settlement outside of Adelaide. Although the "authentic" German pubs, and in fact the few streets making up the entire town, were somewhat tacky, the beer, sausages and saurkraut were phenomenal.

I'll be sad to leave, if I can ever pull myself away from this beautiful town and these quality friends.

Alright, so I must admit that by the time I reached Adelaide I lost much of the motivation I had to sit in front of a computer for any length of time.

As my trip is now coming to a close, I was considering just not bothering to complete this little log-book. BUT after a suprising number of e-mails harrassing me for updates, I've decided to work over the next week to fill in at least parts of the remaining trip. I guess it will also allow me to reminisce in the past before returning to "real life" early next week...

Hope you enjoy it...

I should apologize: i'm awful at keeping this up to date.

But in my defense, there aren't many internet places readily avaliable... (or else i'm too cheap to pay $2 for 10 min of slow access)

In any case, there ARE pictures coming for most of the entries i've already written, and i'll eventually catch up on my writting as well.

On the ferry ride across to Kangaroo Island I met an interesting local woman named Maggie. We shared stories: I told her about my travels and she told me about life on Kangaroo Island, and her two children who seem just as fascinating as she! If all goes to plan tomorrow I'll meet her for tea.

Maggie did bring up an interesting point of view though. When I mentioned how lucky I was to travel like this, she said, "You're not lucky; you've worked very hard to be able to do this." Which is true; but at the same time there are many who work hard and either because of their situation, or just because they don't have the motivation to leave their hard-working, "safe" lifestyles never get a chance to just explore the world...

On my walk from Snake Lagoon campsite to the ocean, I strayed off the path to explore some caves on the cliffside (from a distance, of course... many caves are sacred Aboriginal sites...). When I arrived about 500m up from the path I was so fascinated by the fact that there were so mean shells and fossils up on the cliffs, that I didn't notive the beehive until I looked up to see the source of a strange buzzing. A massive beehive was built, about 50cm x 30cm, onto the roof of the cave. It was so beautiful, with honeycombs exposed right on the outside where hundreds of bees were busy at work!

As I was climbing up further along the path, being very quite and careful in case of wildlife that may be around, I was rewarded as I pulled myself up a rockface to see a huge, black mountaingoat. Slowly reaching for my camera I saw 2 more white ones join him!!! We stood there forever, just staring at each other, both extremely curious, both slightly cautious. It was an intense experience!

I stayed at the beach until the sun began to set, and then hiked back to camp. I walked the 2 km slowly and quitely as possible, at first with the hopes of seeing more wildlife, but then just enjoying and being a part of the forest's silence. I barely breathed as I soaked up the creaking of trees and the whisper of the insects.

Just now I poked my head out of the tent to peak at the possums and wallabies making a ruckus in the dark... and... WOW the stars out here are phenomenal!!!

I truly am lucky.

Yesterday's drive was red, hot and dry.

Most of the dugouts I passed are empty; those that aren't are getting close. Some of the fields have dried out and died completely, have become nothing but sand (or is that salt?) and small brush...

I'm just packing up camp at the Pink Lakes (they really ARE pink! some strange micro-organism that inhabits these salty waters). It was the perfect place to camp; not a soul around so no need for modesty in the form of clothing (a relief in this heat) and the scenery is incredible. The only downfall is the flies: it seems that neither flies nor ants here seem to care that I've doused myself in OFF Deep Woods. Today I'm glad I decided to keep the tent!

And off I go into South Australia...